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Hallmarks & Precious Metals

Hallmarks and Precious Metals - some useful information

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See examples of our styles of UK hallmarked engagement rings 

 
Precious Metals

Hallmarks are small markings stamped onto precious metals - gold, silver and platinum articles. Hallmarks mean an article has been independently tested and guarantees that it conforms to all standards of purity (fineness.)

 

Assay Offices

 

 

 

The tests are carried out by an assay office, of which there are four in the UK , London , Birmingham , Sheffield and Edinburgh. These are the symbols represented in the hallmarks for the relevant assay office in the UK.

 

 

 


9 Carat Gold

Hallmarks - 9ct

9 Carat gold is available in a few colours, most popularly yellow and white gold. This is a less expensive precious metal than 18 carat gold. It contains 37.5% gold and is alloyed with other metals to increase the hardness, durability and colour. It is represented by the figures 375 in hallmarks. Not as hardwearing as 18 carat gold or platinum, jewellery in 9 carat gold can feel lighter when worn, but remains very popular and is widely used in jewellery production. 9ct white gold hallmarks and 9ct yellow gold hallmarks will carry this figure.

 
 
              9ct gold hallmark example

18 Carat Gold

Hallmarks - 18ct

This is one of the most popular precious metals for engagement rings and high quality jewellery. It contains 75% pure gold and is represented by the figure 750 on hallmarks. It is available in both yellow and white gold. Because of the high content of gold, 18 carat white gold would naturally appear more of a straw white colour. It is for this reason that  white gold jewellery sold is rhodium plated to finish the item with a very white, hard and durable coat. This hard finish will, over a long period,  eventually wear, especially on rings worn on a daily basis. As with any metal though, scratches are unavoidable.  It can, however, easily be re-applied at any time by a jeweller. The ring is normally polished, and then rhodium plated and will be returned to as new condition. We are always happy to provide this service.


 
 
Platinum
 

Click here to learn more about platinum.

         

Naturally white in colour this is the finest precious metal used in jewellery. It is more expensive than gold due mainly to its rarity. Mining platinum involves extracting ore from 2000 metres below the surface of the Earth. Platinum is embedded in small particles of this ore so it takes over 10 tonnes of ore to produce a single ounce of platinum.     

Example hallmark for Platinum jewellery   

 
Platinum

Most platinum sold in the UK is 95% pure. It will thus have hallmarks with the figures 950, denoting the purity and may bear another quality mark, the Orb.
It is naturally a hypoallergenic metal and always remains white. Scratches and wear will only displace the precious metal, making it extremely hard wearing and durable. Scratches and wear will produce a natural even finish to the ring. To bring it back to 'as new' condition, it will merely need to be repolished. A good idea is to have this done at the same time as buying your wedding rings so that both engagement ring and wedding rings are pristine for your wedding day. For more information on platinum as a choice for your jewellery, please visit preciousplatinum.co.uk.

A ring in platinum will be approximately 40% heavier than the equivalent ring in 18ct gold. Due to its hardness platinum will always provide excellent protection for a diamond. Platinum engagement rings provide the best security for a diamond. Most platinum engagement rings will also keep their white colouring.

 Hallmarks - PlatinumTypically the numbers 950 are used to denote the purity of platinum jewellery.

One of the newest metals that has become more available is Palladium. It is now very easy to produce palladium jewellery, including wedding rings and engagement rings. Although there is no hallmark available at this current date, the metal is becoming a more popular choice. Further details of the advantages of this metal can be found on our Palladium wedding rings page. 

 

Some common questions

"So which precious metal do I choose?"
This is a matter of personal choice but a few factors may help you decide which you will want to purchase. Firstly budget will be a deciding factor. If you are looking for white gold jewellery, platinum is naturally white, but 18 carat gold will be perfectly adequate and will have a very high polish and ultra white rhodium finish, furthermore it might be a more affordable option.

"But most of my jewellery is yellow gold. Which should I choose?"
If you already have one colour of gold in your wardrobe, you may wish to remain with one colour, or buy jewellery that combines white with yellow gold, thereby introducing white into your collection. If you are interested in any of our jewellery and cannot see your preferred combination, we can tailor make the piece for you if you contact us.

"Should I buy platinum if my other jewellery is gold?"
There is no reason why you shouldn’t. Platinum is a luxurious metal that is very pure and will always retain its natural whiteness. It will blend in with jewellery that is white gold and will compliment other jewellery that is yellow gold, only adding versatility to an existing wardrobe.

"Should I worry about rhodium plating wearing away?"
The rhodium plating applied to white gold jewellery is extremely hard and will take an enormous amount of wear. The colour will remain and it would take a long time to notice any change in colour. When your jewellery needs re-polishing, this can easily be done by a jeweller and the piece can be re-rhodium plated to bring your ring back to the original condition. We would be happy to provide this service at any
time. Rhodium plating will not affect hallmarks and is a applied to white gold jewellery by most jewellers.

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